Travel ideas: Winter

St.Moritz, Switzerland.

I’ve been skiing for more than 20 years, so I know that great ski runs are just as important as the moments of relaxation after hitting the slopes—St. Moritz seems to be the ultimate destination for both.

48h itinerary

Day One: Peaks, Paintings, and a Proper Plate of Cheese

Check-in: Badrutt’s Palace
Late morning. Old-school glamour, alpine quiet, and views that don’t need filters.

Midday: Ski + Après
A few runs to wake up the legs, then straight into après-ski mode. Preferably with a drink in hand, sitting still while the mountains do all the work.

Late Afternoon: Segantini Museum + Paul McCarthy
Off the slopes and into something slower. The Segantini Museum is quiet, intense—paintings that manage to feel colder than the snow outside.
A detour to see the Paul McCarthy sculpture, half-buried in snow and attitude. A reminder that not all alpine icons are landscapes.

Evening: Dinner at Suvretta Stube
Wood walls, candlelight, just enough ceremony. The food’s rich and regional, the wine list knows where it’s going. A proper end to a first day.

Day Two: Tarts, Steam, and a Sunset Worth the Climb

Morning: Hauser & Wirth + Confiserie Hanselmann
We can start slow with a visit to Hauser & Wirth gallery. Then a walk through town or along the edge of the lake or something sweet at Confiserie Hanselmann— a slice of Engadine nut tart that’s earned its legacy.

Midday: Kulm Spa
Midday is for the Kulm Spa. Heated pools, snow outside, and steam that makes you forget what time it is. Muscles reset. Breathing slows down.

Lunch: Chesa Veglia
A quick lunch in a 17th-century farmhouse turned restaurant. Less formal than it sounds.

Afternoon: One last run or one last nothing
Either we squeeze in one last ski run or we don’t. Maybe we just stay in the room. Maybe that’s the point.

Evening: Muottas Muragl at Sunset
We can take the funicular up to Muottas Muragl just as the light starts to shift. The whole Engadin valley opens up below—snow, silence, soft gold. Dinner with a view that doesn’t compete, it just is. Then back down slowly, quietly, like a fade to black.

Snow-covered large hotel building with lit windows, surrounded by snowy rooftops, set against a backdrop of snow-covered mountains and blue sky.
Cozy restaurant interior with wooden walls and ceiling, checkered tablecloths, wine glasses, and staff preparing oven in the background.
Snow-covered mountains and trees viewed from a hot tub or indoor pool area.